Fly fishing for trout in New Zealand

The picturesque Motueka Valley

For many anglers New Zealand is synonymous with trout fishing and likely a bucket list destination.  Amazingly, trout are not native there and were only introduced some 150 years ago.  The brown trout population originates from British stock raised in Tasmania in the 1860s and rainbows brought over from North America some twenty years later.  The informed angler has also likely heard that the trout fishing is challenging and that the trout are enormous.  Both are absolutely true.

I have been fly fishing for trout for more than 30 years and a trip to New Zealand has been on my wish list for most of that time.  So, after a year-long teaching assignment in Hong Kong, I decided to treat myself to an extended excursion that would cover both the North and South Islands.  As I had hoped, the fishing was epic but turned out to be an entirely different experience from one island to the next.

prize of the South Island of New Zealand

I spent a week on the South Island as part of an Orvis package at a lodge near Nelson in the northwest.  This lodge was nestled in the Motueka Valley and overlooks the famed Motueka River (the ‘Mot’), which is a coveted destination for trout fishing.  I quickly found out that the ‘Mot’, along with connecting waters and tributaries is bad ass brown trout territory!

Fishing the ‘Mot’ is the epitome of all the challenges one may have read or heard about regarding trout fishing in New Zealand.  These waters are sparsely populated with brown trout, which means you must go looking for them and they are frustratingly easily spooked.  Stealth is paramount, which means neutral colored fly line, super long leaders and a delicate presentation.  My guide was uber cautious, opting for silent approaches (staying out of the water, no boot cleats, no wading staff and minimal talking and pointing), and all at an agonizingly slow pace.

can't you see that fish right over there - next to the black rock?

 Once we encountered a fish, we took time to observe its feeding pattern and chose the fly and its delicate presentation on that basis.  Often the first cast was deliberately short to measure the appropriate distance and without multiple false casts.  Then you had a few opportunities to cast to the fish with the correct placement for a chance for a hook up.  Casting too far upstream you could line the fish.  Casting too far left or right would also alert the fish to your line.  So, the presentation had to be very precise, or you spook the fish and have to move on to the next candidate a quarter mile upstream.

I found sight fishing, particularly for brown trout, to be a practiced talent.  Nine times out of ten I could not make out the fish even when prompted by the guide as to the location.  It did not help that the lens color of my polarized sunglasses was grey and, as such, inadequate for maximizing the contrast that would reveal our prey.  Spotting the exact location of the fish is vital to present the fly to the precise spot or risk spooking the fish.  So, having the right color lens (amber or yellow) and an experienced guide are recommended for an angler fishing in New Zealand for the first time.

a behemoth brown of the 'Mot' Valley river system

Fishing the North Island in the vicinity of Lake Taupo was less intense, but still rather technical. The waters here contained both browns and rainbows; the latter more numerous, less easily spooked, and often schooled up along the edges of currents and in deep holes.  In a section of the Tongariro, downstream of a dam, the rainbows schooled up in great numbers so drifting nymphs under a wool indicator produced a dream of a morning.  Here my guide was less worried about extreme stealthiness, I even wore studded wading boots and carried a wading staff.

low and slow water requires stealth and precision casting

But there were occasions in this area where low and slow water required more stealth and precise fly placement, especially when the occasional brown was sighted.  As a hatch developed, we switched to small dries that proved to be lethal when delicately placed in the vicinity of the fish.

When visiting New Zealand to fish for trout, a license is required, which can be purchased on line from Fish & Game New Zealand.  There is also a special permit needed for certain areas, like the Taupo region.  Entering New Zealand with fishing gear obliges the angler to declare that the equipment has been cleaned or subject the equipment to sanitation at the airport.  Any gear associated with outdoor activities, including camping, backpacking and hiking boots needs a thorough cleaning before arriving to New Zealand, or you could be subject to a fine.  Felt soled wading boots are prohibited.

a Lake Taupo region rainbow

Sandflies are a wicked pest on the South Island and protection is necessary to avoid being swarmed and bitten repeatedly.  I wore long sleeves, gloves and a gaiter and they still found the few uncovered areas and also breached the gaps of my shirt to bite the heck out of my belly.  The bites are nasty and uncomfortable for a long time, so it is best to be excessively cautious and apply an effective repellent.

In his book, The Trout Diaries, author Derek Grzelewski proclaims New Zealand to be unsurpassed as a trout fishing destination based on the "sheer diversity and quality of fishing for wild brown and rainbow trout." I would have to agree as my trip to fish in New Zealand certainly ranks among my most memorable fishing experiences.

Tight lines!