Fly fishing on New Zealand's North Island

Whakapapa River

Fishing for trout in the Taupo region

After spending a week at a lodge in the northwest of the South Island of New Zealand, I flew from Nelson to Auckland and drove to the Taupo region for an additional two days of fly fishing for trout.  While researching my excursion to fly fish for trout in New Zealand, I learned that the trout fishing on the South Island was distinct from that of the North Island, with the latter being an experience not to be underestimated.  After having fished both (and I am glad I did), I found that claim to be very true.

On the South Island I fished the Motueka River Valley, which epitomizes all the challenges one may have read or heard about as it relates to trout fishing in New Zealand.  Author Derek Grzelewski, a former New Zealand trout fishing guide, writes in his book, The Trout Diaries, that “the Motueka (is) a tough place to fish”.  Based on my experience, I would agree.  These waters are sparsely populated with brown trout, sight fishing is the rule in the approach, and extreme stealth is paramount.

My experience of fishing for trout in different areas of the Lake Taupo region on the North Island was entirely different – not necessarily easier, per se, but there are several reasons why the fly fishing for trout came across as more accessible and approachable.  To begin with, the waters there contained both browns and rainbows, and the latter were more numerous and less spooky.  The approach to fishing also was not the covert operation I was subjected to in my South Island experience.  My guides were less worried about extreme stealth, and I even used studded wading boots and a wading staff.

Before expanding on my North Island fishing experience, it is important to highlight the importance of the Lake Taupo region within the context of trout fishing in New Zealand.  Zane Grey introduced this “fisherman’s paradise” to the world in 1926, and other authors have since piled on accolades to highlight the prolific trout fishing there.  The introduction of rainbow trout in New Zealand focused on the North Island (with ova originating from Sonoma Creek in North America), and conditions in Lake Taupo and its tributaries have facilitated a vibrant stock of healthy (and enormous) rainbow trout that have become the cornerstone of North Island trout fishing.

Tongariro River

My experience of fly fishing for trout on the North Island began with a pleasant drive from Auckland to the village of Tūrangi on the southern end of Lake Taupo, where bed and breakfast and self-catered accommodation is plentiful.  Given its proximity to the Tongariro river, which feeds Lake Taupo, Tūrangi calls itself the “trout capital of the world”.  My research found little statistical basis for this claim, although I have fished many places that claim to be a renowned ‘trout town’ and it is fair to say that Tūrangi is clearly a prime fishing destination.

In advance of my visit, I had specifically determined that this would be a semi-DIY fishing excursion, without the fancy lodge and related world-class catering (although there is that option in the vicinity).  I chose a very humble and accommodating B&B near the village center and sourced two knowledgeable guides who could provide me with different fishing experiences over consecutive days.  It turned out to be the perfect option for fishing the Lake Taupo region.

rainbow trout were stacked up below the dam on the Tongariro and nymph fishing was productive

On the first day, accompanied by my energetic guide Hamish, we began fishing a not-unknown section of the Tongariro River at the dam.  I am not revealing any trade secrets by mentioning this spot as we witnessed several drift boats put in here with multiple anglers armed with several fly rods.  The guides all seemed to know each other, share a genuine camaraderie and find ways to amiably poke fun.  On this day, there was also a colossal concentration of rainbows submerged in deep troughs and hugging riffles and seams in the upstream currents.  I had very good success hooking up on these fish with a 5x, 15t foot leader suspending nymphs under a large wool indicator or PMX.

this section of the Tongariro River required more stealth and dry flies were productive

We moved upstream of the dam to a spot that will remain secret – it is one of Hamish’s sweet spots – and represents a section that has been diverted from the main stem.  As it held both browns and rainbows in calmer, shallow water, we exercised more stealth and spent more time sight fishing than blind fishing.  This was also the first time using very small dries (a size 20 CDC fly), which proved very productive.  Hamish was proud to proclaim that other anglers generally do not trust a dry fly to catch fish on this river, but he proved it was a great approach to fishing this section.

this section of the Whakapapa River had a backcountry feel with fast moving water

For my second day, I contacted local guide Bryce Curle, who was recommended by my Trout Unlimited community.  Bryce had kindly left a private section of the Whakapapa River untouched for a few days so that we would have a shot at some nice browns and rainbows.  The Whakapapa (a Māori word, which is pronounced “Fukapapa”, unluckily) is another prime fishery west of Lake Taupo.  Like the Tongariro it holds both browns and rainbows but, whereas the Tongariro generally has migratory fish from Lake Taupo, the fish in the Whakapapa find their way from the sea, and seemed to be bigger fighters as a result.

a Whakapapa River feisty brown trout caught on a dry fly

The Whakapapa was probably the most enjoyable of all the waters I fished while in New Zealand.  It is a backcountry gem that generally requires more stealth than the Tongariro but felt more approachable than the Motueka and with a greater population of fish.  With a considerable amount of sight fishing already behind me, I seemed to pick up more quickly on fish.  I was also casting a 5wt rod with 5x leaders that were considerably shorter than on the Motueka.  And the fish seemed more tempted by my fly placement.

I left the North Island feeling very good.  I put as many fish in the net in two days as I did in a week on the South Island.  Not that it was easy, just – as I said before - seemingly more approachable.  Maybe I learned well from my boot camp experience on the South Island.  Or, maybe the fishing on the North Island is just more forgiving.

Tight Lines!